I had this fabric set aside for a child’s quilt to be donated for
Gateway Quilt Guild’s “Quilters’ Embrace” program, so decided to accomplish two
projects in one.
SHOW:
This is the finished product. I bought the three fabrics
with the orange as part of a 50% off Red Tag special. I added the one turquoise
from my stash, and later added the green and the floral on navy blue to add
some contrast.
I originally planned on a 41” x 48” child’s quilt with
the flannel backing. I expanded it by adding a border in some of the woven
fabric used in the blocks on front. I used 1/2” seams and sewed a reinforcing top
stitch since flannel tends to be a loose, soft weave.
TELL:
I put my wooden clothes drying rack to good use while
assembling this quilt. By hanging the rows as I sewed the blocks together, I
was able to keep them straight while I put the main body together.
I have a system that works for me to help me keep my blocks lined up and my seams squared. I use the long quilting pins to hold the lengths together. However, when it comes to where the seams join, I use the thin, silk pins. I pin whatever raw edge is facing back, and is at risk of being bent forward. By inserting the pin from left to right, I do not need to worry about my quarter inch seam guide getting hung up on the pin. I can use my left hand to remove the pin once the needle tacks the underneath edge in place, although, with the super thin pins, it is not always necessary, especially if I am using a size 14 or larger needle. I find that the bargain straight pins at the discount stores are too thick. I purchase the thinner ones at a fabric store.
Because I knew all the blocks were in increments of four
inches, I used a yardstick to measure out four inch blocks in black. The black
lines were intended to be lined up with feather-stitched block seams.
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